We Train Together Episode 2:

Strength Training Cycle

Objectives of this second training cycle (duration 1 month)

  • Developing your arm strength qualities

  • Transfer of your physical progress through tactical work

  • Strengthening your fingers for the next cycle

"The motto of the cycle: Don’t limit your challenges, challenge your limits!"

Two training programs to choose from:

Training program No. 1
=4hrs 30 mins/week

<<Get to the essentials and progress in a very short time>>

Training program No.2
=9hrs/ week

<<Organise yourself effectively for successful training>>

One cycle, 4 training sessions:

1

Climbing session:

Arm strength

Duration:

2hrs 30 mins

Gym/ Rock

See details below

2

Tactical video session

Duration:

30 mins

Home

See details below

3

Climbing session:

Technical work

Duration:

1hr 15mins

4

Duration:

15mins

Gym/ Rock

Home

Non-detailed session: To be carried out independently

Finger 

Strengthening

Session 1 Details: Climbing Session- Arm Strength 

1

Climbing session:

Arm strength

Duration:

2hrs 30 mins

Gym/ Rock

See details below

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Warm-up details:

 

 1. Cardio warm-up, for example, jogging or skipping rope  [2 min]

 2. Joint warm-up [3 min]

 3. Muscle warm-up with resistance bands [3 min]

 4. Easy climbing then gradually increase the intensity [12 min]

 5. Maximum level climbing [5 min]

Following the warm-up, you can choose a bouldering session or a lead session!

Details on the bouldering session (indoors or on rock) 

  • Choose 10 boulders in total:

    • 4 boulders two grades below your redpoint maximum level – 3 attempts maximum/ boulder.

    • 6 boulders three grades below your redpoint maximum level – 1 attempt maximum/ boulder.

    • Minimum 3 minutes of rest between each attempt.

Details for the lead climbing session (indoors or on rock) 

  • Choose 4 routes two grades below your redpoint maximum level.

  • After a period of observation, one attempt per route then move on to the next​.

  • Minimum 15 minutes of rest between each route.

Details for the physical training (boulder and lead)

Session 1 Details.

Option n°1 = Without additional equipment

Exercise 1: Campus boulder

Choose a basic boulder on an overhang, three grades below your redpoint maximum level, climb the boulder with no feet. For 15 minutes, make attempts to send the boulder.

Exercise n°2: Triceps mantle

On a mantle movement, try the movement normally, then with one foot only, then without the feet. Do 8 tries in total.

Exercise n°3: Bumping

Stand on the wall with two handholds and one foot. One hand stays steady and with the second hand, bump further and further away, hold until failure. Do 4 tries on each arm.

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Details for the physical training (boulder and lead)

 

Session 1 Details.

Option n°2 = With additional equipment

Exercise 1: Weighted pull-ups

- Do 5 pull-ups weighted with the maximum weight

- Number of sets = 3

- Rest time between two sets = 5 minutes

Exercise n°2: Weighted dips

- Do 5 dips weighted with the maximum weight

- Number of sets = 3

- Rest time between two sets = 5 minutes

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Adjust the difficulty of the exercises

What if the exercise is too hard?

1. Choose easier boulders or mantles.

2.Choose bigger starting holds or put both feet on the wall for the bumping exercise.

3. Perform pull-ups or dips with less weight.

What if the exercise is too easy?

1. Choose harder boulders or mantles.

2. Add weight to make it harder.

3. For the bumping exercise, do it without feet.

4. Perform pull-ups or dips with more weight.

Demonstration video

Session 2 Details: Tactical video session  

2

Tactical video session

Duration:

30 mins

Home

See details below

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Course of the session

1. Choose one sequence in the video editing: (4 sequences in total, i.e one sequence per week)

2. First viewing: The objective is to find the right hand sequence. That is to say, the sequence of hand movements from the start to the top of the route/boulder.

3. Second viewing: Now it’s time to imagine where you will put your feet, and how you will move them according to your 

hand sequence.

4. Finally, compare with what the climbers did by watching the replay (links below).Did I make alot of mistakes ? 

Sometimes there can be several different sequences, the most important is to have found at least one.

Watch the video editing (4 sequences = 1 per week)

Links for the sequence checking:

- Sequence n°1 - Lead

 

- Sequence n°2 – Boulder: Boulder 1       Boulder 2

- Sequence n°3 – Lead 

- Sequence n°4 – Boulder: Boulder 1       Boulder 2

Demonstration video

Adjust the difficulty of the exercises

What if the exercise is too hard?

1. Limit yourself to the reading of the hand sequence only

2. Watch the video as many time as needed

What if the exercise is too easy?

1. Find the crux, i.e define the hardest movement  (boulder) and the 3 hardest movements (lead)

2. For lead, define the holds with which you will clip the quickdraws

General Advice-Session 3 and 4 Details:

3

Climbing session:

Technical work

Duration:

1hr 15mins

Gym/ Rock

General Advice

After about 20 minutes of warming up, divide your session in two parts. The first part is a 40 minute climbing sequence at your maximum level. Then, allow 15 minutes for technical games of your choice 

(Example: Climbing in vertical profiles or slabs, balance games without hands, tiny foot holds etc.).

4

Finger Strengthening

Duration:

15mins

Home

General Advice

- Do 3 exercises focused on the fingers extensors (Example: with an elastic band). 

- 45 seconds per exercise, 15 seconds of rest between each exercise, then repeat 3 times each exercise.

- Perform about 10 dead hangs of 45 seconds at low intensity, keeping your feet on the ground, on various grips.

Training program No.1: 4hrs 30 mins/week

<< Go to the essentials to progress in a very short time >>

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Training program No.2: 9hrs/week

<< Organise yourself effectively for successful training >>

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Rémi's advice for managing your training program

 

The training program is intended to guide you through your climbing project but keep in mind that at times it will be necessary to adjust it. Here are the main principles to follow:

  • Minimum 2 full days of rest per week

  • Never more than 3 consecutive training days

  • In case of severe fatigue or illness, do not hesitate to postpone or even cancel your session

You can contact Rémi directly with any questions you may have on the training program on Instagram or Facebook and 

 On s’Entraîne Ensemble Facebook page.

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