We Train Together Episode 1:

Recovery Cycle Post Lockdown

Objectives of this first training cycle (duration 1 month)

  • Find your bearing in climbing after the lockdown break

  • Prepare your body for the next development cycles

  • Find a regular training pace

"The motto of the cycle: Don’t dream your life, live your dreams!"

Two training programs to choose from:

Training program No. 1
=4hrs 30 mins/week

<<Get to the essentials and progress in a very short time>>

Training program No.2
=9hrs/ week

<<Organise yourself effectively for successful training>>

One cycle, 4 training sessions:

1

Climbing session:

Physical work

Duration:

2hrs 30 mins

Gym/ Rock

See details below

2

Body tension session

Duration:

30 mins

Home

See details below

3

Climbing session:

Tactical work

Duration:

1hr 15mins

4

Passive Flexibility

Duration:

15mins

Gym/ Rock

Home

Non-detailed session: To be carried out independently

Session 1 Details: Climbing Session- Physical work 

1

Climbing session:

Physical work

Duration:

2hrs 30 mins

Gym/ Rock

See details below

Warm-up details:

 

 1. Cardio warm-up, for example, jogging or skipping rope  [2 min]

 2. Joint warm-up [3 min]

 3. Muscle warm-up with resistance bands [3 min]

 4. Easy climbing then gradually increase the intensity [12 min]

 5. Maximum level climbing [5 min]

Following the warm-up, you can choose a bouldering session or a lead session!

Details on the bouldering session (indoors or on rock) 

  • Choose 3 boulders one grade below your redpoint maximum level​

  • After a climb move by move, try to send the boulder, allotted time 20min/boulder​

  • Minimum 3 minutes of rest between each attempt and 5 minutes between each boulder​

Details for the lead climbing session (indoors or on rock) 

  • Choose 3 routes one grade below your redpoint maximum level

  • After a first ascent with stops to understand the moves, try to send the route​

  • Minimum 12 minutes of rest before your attempt​

Details of the boulder physical training

Climbing with pre-fatigue:

In a basic boulder, two grades below your maximum level, perform the pre fatigue exercise, then 15 seconds rest and one try on the boulder. The goal is to send the boulder despite the fatigue handicap created at the start.​

  • Exercise 1: Pull-ups on the starting holds | Objective: Do 10 pull-ups

  • Exercise 2: Hanging on starting holds | Objective: Hang for 10 seconds

Details of the lead physical training

Climbing with pre-fatigue:

In a basic route, two grades below your maximum level, perform the pre-fatigue exercise, then 15 seconds rest and one try on the route. The goal is to send the route despite the fatigue handicap created at the start.

  • Exercise 1: Pull-ups on the starting holds | Objective: Do 10 pull-ups

  • Exercise 2: Hanging on starting holds | Objective: Hang for 20 seconds

To be done 2 times in a row​

Adjust the difficulty of the exercises

What if the exercise is too hard, if I can’t do 10 pull-ups or at least hang for 10 seconds?

1. Choose bigger starting holds

2. Help yourself by putting one foot on the wall

3. Use a resistance band to lighten your weight

What if the exercise is too easy, if I’m not at my limit after 10 pull-ups or 20 seconds hanging?

1. Choose smaller holds

2. Add weight to make it harder

Demonstration video

Session 2 Details: Body Tension  

2

Body tension session

Duration:

30 mins

Home

See details below

Course of the session

1. Warm-up: Try out the exercises for about 10 seconds [3 min]

2. Body tension session: Perform 4 circuits [24 min]

3. Calm down: Relaxation on the ground [3 min]

Time Management 

- Duration of an exercise: 45 seconds

- Rest between two exercises: 15 seconds

- Rest between two circuits: 2 minutes

- Number of circuits: 4

Demonstration video

Adjust the difficulty of the exercises

What if the exercise is too difficult, if I cannot do it for 45 seconds?

Perform the exercise until exhaustion, when you have reached your limit, take 15 seconds of rest then continue on the next.

-Example : After 27 seconds I can no longer do exercise n°2. In this case, rest for 15 seconds then move on to exercise n°3.

What if the exercise is too easy, if I am not at my limit after 45 seconds?

Option 1: Omit the 15 seconds of rest and do all exercises without any rest time.

Option 2: Add ankle weights to perform the same exercises (0.5kg, 1kg or 2kg on each ankle)

Session 3 and 4 Details:

Climbing session- Tactical work and Passive Flexibility   

3

Climbing session:

Tactical work

Duration:

1hr 15mins

Gym/ Rock

General Advice

After about 20 minutes of warming-up, divide your session in two parts. The first is a 40- minute climbing sequence at your maximum level. Then, allow 15 minutes for tactical games of your choice (example : reading, rhythm, clipping optimization etc.)​.

4

Passive Flexibility

Duration:

15mins

Home

General Advice

Do 20 various stretches of 45 seconds each on the lower limbs.​

Training program No.1: 4hrs 30 mins/week

<< Go to the essentials to progress in a very short time >>

Training program No.2: 9hrs/week

<< Organise yourself effectively for successful training >>

Rémi's advice for managing your training program

 

The training program is intended to guide you through your climbing project but keep in mind that at times it will be necessary to adjust it. Here are the main principles to follow:

  • Minimum 2 full days of rest per week

  • Never more than 3 consecutive training days

  • In case of severe fatigue or illness, do not hesitate to postpone or even cancel your session

You can contact Rémi directly with any questions you may have on the training program on Instagram or Facebook and 

 On s’Entraîne Ensemble Facebook page.

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