We Train Together Episode 3:

Finger Strength Training Cycle

Objectives of this third training cycle (duration 1 month)

  • Developing your finger strength qualities

  • Transfer of your physical progress through mental work

  • Muscle strengthening and rebalancing to avoid injuries cycle

"The motto of the cycle: The best preparation for tomorrow is doing your best today."

Two training programs to choose from:

Training program No. 1
=4hrs 30 mins/week

<<Get to the essentials and progress in a very short time>>

Training program No.2
=9hrs/ week

<<Organise yourself effectively for successful training>>

The Diamond Model: A Quick Presentation

A balanced and qualitative model

  • To progress quickly with limited time

  • To minimize the risk of injury

In line with this model, a prevention session is offered in this third episode, to strengthen your muscles and correct the imbalances caused by climbing.

One cycle, 4 training sessions:

1

Climbing session:

Finger strength

Duration:

2hrs 30 mins

Gym/ Rock

See details below

2

Prevention session

<<Upper body>>

Duration:

30 mins

Home

See details below

3

Climbing session:

Mental work

Duration:

1hr 15mins

4

Coordination

Work

Duration:

15mins

Gym/ Rock

Home

Non-detailed session: To be carried out independently

Session 1 Details: Climbing Session- Finger Strength 

1

Climbing session:

Finger strength

Duration:

2hrs 30 mins

Gym/ Rock

See details below

Warm-up details:

 

 1. Cardio warm-up, for example, jogging or skipping rope  [2 min]

 2. Joint warm-up [3 min]

 3. Muscle warm-up with resistance bands [3 min]

 4. Easy climbing then gradually increase the intensity [12 min]

 5. Maximum level climbing [5 min]

Following the warm-up, you can choose a bouldering session or a lead session!

Details on the bouldering session (indoors or on rock) 

« The pyramid » : The principle is simple, follow the rule of « + » or « - »

At the gym, start the exercise at the easiest level (on the rock, 4 grades below your redpoint maximum level). 

 

With a maximum of 3 attempts per boulder, if you send the boulder go up one level, in case of failure go down one level(or one grade on the rock).

Minimum 3 minutes of rest between each attempt. Duration: 1h 10mins.

Details for the lead climbing session (indoors or on rock) 

« The pyramid » : The principle is simple, follow the rule of « + » or « - »

Start the exercise one grade below your onsight maximum level. With only one attempt per route, if you send the route go up half a grade, in case of failure go down half a grade.

 

Minimum 15 minutes of rest between eachroute. Duration: 1h 10mins.

Details for the physical training (boulder and lead)

Exercise N°1: Hanging with both hands

Hang with two hands, with no feet, on two smallest possible holds.

The goal is to hang for 12 seconds. If you can hold it longer, decrease the size of the holds. If you hold less than 12 seconds, choose bigger holds.

Exercise N°2: Extreme movement one foot on the wall

Starting position: Two hand holds and one foot hold of your choice. The goal is to grab a hold above you (= perform one extreme movement) and stabilize yourself for 3 seconds on it.

Exercise N°3: Grab two holds while jumping from the ground

From the ground, push up on your legs to grab two hand holds above you. Once stabilized for 3 seconds on these holds, you can release.

Adjust the difficulty of the exercises

What if the exercise is too hard?

Exercise 1: Choose bigger hand holds or put one foot on the wall

Exercise 2: Choose bigger hand holds or put both feet on the wall

Exercise 3: Choose bigger landings holds or reduce the height of the jump

What if the exercise is too easy?

Exercise 1: Choose smaller hand holds or add a weight of 1 to 3 kg

Exercise 2: Choose smaller hand holds or perform the movement with no feet

Exercise 3: Choose smaller hand holds or increase the height of the jump

Demonstration video

Session 2 Details: Prevention session (Upper Body) 

2

Prevention session

<<Upper body>>

Duration:

30 mins

Home

See details below

Course of the session

1) Warm-up: Try out the exercises for about 10 seconds [3 min]

2) Body tension session: Perform 4 circuits [24 min]

3) Calm down: Relaxation on the ground [3 min]

Exercise Demonstration: Watch video episode 3

Time management

   - Duration of an exercise : 45 seconds

   - Rest between two exercises : 15 seconds

   - Rest between two circuits : 2 minutes

   - Number of circuits : 4

Note

All the exercises offered in this prevention session are low intensity exercises. They should be done at a slow speed and you don't have to make them more difficult. Keep in mind that  “easy” does not mean “useless” and that this strengthening / rebalancing work is essential for progression without injury.

Demonstration video

General Advice-Session 3 and 4 Details:

3

Climbing session:

Mental work

Duration:

1hr 15mins

Gym/ Rock

General Advice

After about 20 minutes of warming-up, divide your session in two parts. The first part is a 40 minutes climbing sequence at your maximum level. Then, allow 15 minutes for visualization exercises

(Example: Memorize a boulder or a route then close your eyes and visualize yourself climb in. Do a try, then visualize again, correcting errors and adding sensations felt during your attempt).

4

Coordination Work

Duration:

15mins

Home

General Advice

Do 3 exercises focused on coordination, motor skills and balance (Example: balancing on a ball, multidirectional jumps on one leg, slackline...all while juggling tennis ball in your hands)

45 seconds per exercise, 15 seconds of rest between each exercise, then repeat each exercise 5 times. 

Training program No.1: 4hrs 30 mins/week

<< Go to the essentials to progress in a very short time >>

Training program No.2: 9hrs/week

<< Organise yourself effectively for successful training >>

Rémi's advice for managing your training program

 

The training program is intended to guide you through your climbing project but keep in mind that at times it will be necessary to adjust it. Here are the main principles to follow:

  • Minimum 2 full days of rest per week

  • Never more than 3 consecutive training days

  • In case of severe fatigue or illness, do not hesitate to postpone or even cancel your session

You can contact Rémi directly with any questions you may have on the training program on Instagram or Facebook and 

 On s’Entraîne Ensemble Facebook page.

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