top of page

We Train Together Episode 3:

Finger Strength Training Cycle

Objectives of this third training cycle (duration 1 month)

  • Developing your finger strength qualities

  • Transfer of your physical progress through mental work

  • Muscle strengthening and rebalancing to avoid injuries cycle

"The motto of the cycle: The best preparation for tomorrow is doing your best today."

Two training programs to choose from:

Training program No. 1
=4hrs 30 mins/week

<<Get to the essentials and progress in a very short time>>

Training program No.2
=9hrs/ week

<<Organise yourself effectively for successful training>>

The Diamond Model: A Quick Presentation

A balanced and qualitative model

  • To progress quickly with limited time

  • To minimize the risk of injury

In line with this model, a prevention session is offered in this third episode, to strengthen your muscles and correct the imbalances caused by climbing.

Diamond model.png

One cycle, 4 training sessions:


Climbing session:

Finger strength


2hrs 30 mins

Gym/ Rock

See details below


Prevention session

<<Upper body>>


30 mins


See details below


Climbing session:

Mental work


1hr 15mins






Gym/ Rock


Non-detailed session: To be carried out independently

Session 1 Details: Climbing Session- Finger Strength 


Climbing session:

Finger strength


2hrs 30 mins

Gym/ Rock

See details below

Flowchart 2.png

Warm-up details:


 1. Cardio warm-up, for example, jogging or skipping rope  [2 min]

 2. Joint warm-up [3 min]

 3. Muscle warm-up with resistance bands [3 min]

 4. Easy climbing then gradually increase the intensity [12 min]

 5. Maximum level climbing [5 min]

Following the warm-up, you can choose a bouldering session or a lead session!

Details on the bouldering session (indoors or on rock) 

« The pyramid » : The principle is simple, follow the rule of « + » or « - »

At the gym, start the exercise at the easiest level (on the rock, 4 grades below your redpoint maximum level). 


With a maximum of 3 attempts per boulder, if you send the boulder go up one level, in case of failure go down one level(or one grade on the rock).

Minimum 3 minutes of rest between each attempt. Duration: 1h 10mins.

Details for the lead climbing session (indoors or on rock) 

« The pyramid » : The principle is simple, follow the rule of « + » or « - »

Start the exercise one grade below your onsight maximum level. With only one attempt per route, if you send the route go up half a grade, in case of failure go down half a grade.


Minimum 15 minutes of rest between eachroute. Duration: 1h 10mins.

Details for the physical training (boulder and lead)

Exercise N°1: Hanging with both hands

Hang with two hands, with no feet, on two smallest possible holds.

The goal is to hang for 12 seconds. If you can hold it longer, decrease the size of the holds. If you hold less than 12 seconds, choose bigger holds.

Exercise N°2: Extreme movement one foot on the wall

Starting position: Two hand holds and one foot hold of your choice. The goal is to grab a hold above you (= perform one extreme movement) and stabilize yourself for 3 seconds on it.

Exercise N°3: Grab two holds while jumping from the ground

From the ground, push up on your legs to grab two hand holds above you. Once stabilized for 3 seconds on these holds, you can release.

chart2 1.png

Adjust the difficulty of the exercises

What if the exercise is too hard?

Exercise 1: Choose bigger hand holds or put one foot on the wall

Exercise 2: Choose bigger hand holds or put both feet on the wall

Exercise 3: Choose bigger landings holds or reduce the height of the jump

What if the exercise is too easy?

Exercise 1: Choose smaller hand holds or add a weight of 1 to 3 kg

Exercise 2: Choose smaller hand holds or perform the movement with no feet

Exercise 3: Choose smaller hand holds or increase the height of the jump

Demonstration video