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We Train Together Episode 4:
Endurance Training Cycle
Objectives of this third training cycle (duration 1 month)
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Developing your endurance qualities
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Technical work for the period of realisation of your projects
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Muscle strengthening and rebalancing to avoid injuries cycle
"The motto of the cycle: Every day is a new chance to get there."
Two training programs to choose from:
Training program No. 1
=4hrs 30 mins/week
<<Get to the essentials and progress in a very short time>>
Training program No.2
=9hrs/ week
<<Organise yourself effectively for successful training>>
One cycle, 4 training sessions:
1
Climbing session:
Technical/ Endurance
Duration:
2hrs 30 mins
Gym/ Rock
See details below
2
Prevention session
<<Lower body>>
Duration:
30 mins
Home
See details below
3
Climbing session:
Specific Endurance
Duration:
1hr 15mins
4
Active Flexibility
Duration:
15mins
Gym/ Rock
Home
Non-detailed session: To be carried out independently
Session 1 Details: Climbing Session- Technical Endurance
1
Climbing session:
Technical Endurance
Duration:
2hrs 30 mins
Gym/ Rock
See details below
Warm-up details:
1. Cardio warm-up, for example, jogging or skipping rope [2 min]
2. Joint warm-up [3 min]
3. Muscle warm-up with resistance bands [3 min]
4. Easy climbing then gradually increase the intensity [12 min]
5. Maximum level climbing [5 min]
Following the warm-up, you can choose a bouldering session or a lead session!
Details on the lead session (indoors or on rock)
Exercise no. 1: « Twist to top » [30 mins]
Start by selecting all the « tricky » boulders at the gym, or crag, if you climb outdoor, within your level. During the first half hour of your lead session, climb freely in these technical routes which are, most like, low overhang profiles.
Exercise no. 2: « Soft or hard ? » [20 mins]
Get two pairs of climbing shoes, one soft and one hard. In 2 routes, with different styles, perform one attempt with each of your pairs of climbing shoes…So
Exercise no. 3: « Click to clip » [20 mins]
In 2 routes of your choice, a grade and half below your redpoint maximum level, each quickdraw must: be clipped, then unclipped and clipped againusing the second hand.
Rest time between 2 routes: 10 minutes
Details on the bouldering physical training session (40 minutes)
Reminder of exercise no. 1 of episode 3 :
Hanging with both hands.
Hang with two hands, with no feet, on two smallest possible holds.
Reminder of exercise no. 2 of episode 3 :
Extreme movement one foot on the wall.
Starting position: Two hand holds and one foot hold of your choice. The goal is to grab a hold above you (= perform one extreme movement) and stabilize yourself for 3 seconds on it.
Details for the lead physical training session (40 minutes)
Reminder of exercise no. 1 of episode 3 :
Hanging with both hands
Hang with two hands, with no feet, on two smallest possible holds.
Adjust the difficulty of the exercises
What if the exercise is too hard?
Exercise 1: Choose bigger hand holds or put one foot on the wall
Exercise 2: Choose bigger hand holds or perform the movement by putting both feet on the wall
What if the exercise is too easy?
Exercise 1: Choose smaller hand holds or add a weight of 1 to 3 kg
Exercise 2: Choose smaller hand holds or perform the movement with no feet
Demonstration video
Web Series E4S1
Session 2 Details: Prevention session (Lower Body)
2
Prevention session
<<Lower body>>
Duration:
30 mins
Home
See details below
Course of the session
1) Warm-up: Try out the exercises for about 10 seconds [3 min]
2) Body tension session: Perform 4 circuits [24 min]
3) Calm down: Relaxation on the ground [3 min]
Exercise Demonstration: Watch video episode 3
Time management
- Duration of an exercise : 45 seconds
- Rest between two exercises : 15 seconds
- Rest between two circuits : 2 minutes
- Number of circuits : 3
Note:
All the exercises offered in this prevention session are low intensity exercises. They should be done at a slow speed and you don't have to make them more difficult. Keep in mind that “easy” does not mean “useless” and that this strengthening / rebalancing work is essential for progression without injury.
Demonstration video
Web Series E4S2
General Advice-Session 3 and 4 Details:
3
Climbing session:
Specific Endurance
Duration:
1hr 15mins
Gym/ Rock
General Advice
After about 20 minutes of warming-up, divide your session in two parts. The first part is a 25 minutes climbing sequence at your maximum level. Then, allow 30 minutes to work on your endurance in a specific climbing situation. The goal will be to perform a boulder (or a route) as close as possible maximum level twice in a row without resting. Then take a 5-10 minute break and repeat the exercise until the end of the 30 mins.
4
Active Flexibility
Duration:
15mins
Home
General Advice
Do 5 different active stretches on the lower limbs.
Each stretches are repeated 3 times, working time 45 seconds, rest time 15 seconds between each stretch.
What if your climbing gym is closed?
Details on the bouldering physical training session (40 minutes)
Details for the lead physical training session (40 minutes)
Training program No.1: 4hrs 30 mins/week
<< Go to the essentials to progress in a very short time >>
Training program No.2: 9hrs/week
<< Organise yourself effectively for successful training >>
Rémi's advice for managing your training program
The training program is intended to guide you through your climbing project but keep in mind that at times it will be necessary to adjust it. Here are the main principles to follow:
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Minimum 2 full days of rest per week
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Never more than 3 consecutive training days
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In case of severe fatigue or illness, do not hesitate to postpone or even cancel your session
You can contact Rémi directly with any questions you may have on the training program on Instagram or Facebook and
